It seemed that a global conspiracy had been put into place, keeping Kim and I from taking our first international vacation. We had canceled our plans for three years in a row – first for a pandemic, then a military invasion, followed by slow tourism reopenings. We had originally planned a trip to Ireland, but the events of the past three years convinced us to head slightly further north to Scotland.
Our interest in exploring our roots was increased after assembling the story of my grandfather, James McAfee. Understanding more about his life brought clarity to events that shaped my father and me. I became aware of seemingly small things from our past that guided our worldview. Armed with that knowledge, we journeyed into our family’s distant past to see who else we could meet.
The McAfees are part of an ancient clan, tracing its roots back to Alpin, the first king of Scotland in the 9th century A.D. We were a small clan never exceeding 400 people, but present through events that shaped Scotland across the centuries.
The MacFies (the official spelling) battled for freedom with William Wallace in 1297 A.D. at the Battle of Stirling, again with Robert the Bruce when he defeated the English in 1324 A.D. at the Battle of Bannockburn, and in 1745 A.D. when the Scots tragically lost the bloody Battle of Culloden, signalling an end to much of clan life.
For years I have heard the stories of my proud forefathers defending themselves, risking everything to defend their way of life. However I was not prepared for the impact it would have on me walking the lonely roads of the small, rural island where our story began.
Colonsay is a stunningly beautiful island off the western coast of Scotland. I stood in amazement on the shores of Kiloran Bay, with the sounds of crashing waves drowning out all thoughts except for the magnificence of our Creator’s hand.
The 20-acre gardens at Colonsay House feature soft paths through ancient trees and brilliant flowers that seem to transend time itself.
You can clearly imagine watching people as they erected the Standing Stones thousands of years ago. Our views of hills and valleys are the same as the first eyes saw some 8,000 years ago.
James and I searched for hours for A’ Clach Thogalaich, the lifting stone. It weights 280 lbs and has offered generations of young men the chance to prove they are coming of age by lifting it off the ground. Lacking any good place to grip and awkwardly off-balance, it is deceptively difficult. No matter how I strained and pulled, it remained stubbornly stuck to the earth. Conversely, after a few adjustments and a brief struggle, James successfully lifted it and took his place in a long line of victorious warriors.
The MacFie population on the island peaked at 387 in 1881 A.D. but is currently just over one hundred people. Although that equates to 128 acres per person, neighbors there know each other. The joy people share together is demonstrated by its designation as the smallest island in the world with both a functioning brewery and distillery.
I was unprepared for the feeling of heartbreak after we walked a gravel path to MacFie Stone, the site of one of the darkest days in our family’s history. In that place Malcolm MacFie, the last clan chief, was murdered in 1623 A.D. – executed as he stood against the large standing stone. A mournful spirit hovers in that place, where for a moment humanity failed.
As much as we felt at home there, Kim and I agreed that few people would consider it an ideal vacation spot. Winter days are cold, dark and rainy. Summer days are cool and rainy. There are few modern conveniences and the ferry that provides transport has a schedule that is irregular and can be unpredictable.
Nonetheless my heart had an unexpected connection to that distant place. I am a MacFie, born out of the Highlands of Scotland. My life is part of a chain that extends across millenia.
Compared to the enduring beauty of Colonsay, my life seems very short.
In ways, it feels that my part of the story is very small. I am not only the 10th generation in the United States, but something like a 50th generation MacFie. Another 300 generations have passed since the first residents lived on “our” island. All but a handful of those have faded from memory, their names erased by the sands of time. One after another they rose up and took their place guiding the world before passing the torch on. Am I more than another life soon forgotten?
Is our time on this earth as fleeting and insignificant as Solomon wrote in Ecclesiastes? He bemoaned the pointlessness of it all, the repetition of the earth despite our efforts. Even with all his wealth and wisdom, his temple is gone, his kingdom broken, his enormous wealth dispersed. Was it all “chasing the wind?”
If he struggled to find meaning in it all, how can we?
This week, I was introduced to Malcolm MacFie. He has been dead for 400 years, but his memory lives on and his story offers encouragement.
Most of us studied English Imperialism in high school. Since the U.S. threw off the shackles in the 1700s, it offers us little more than a footnote in history. However, Scotland fought for their recognition as an independent country for centuries (and had a popular vote concerning withdrawal from the United Kingdom as recently as 2014).
Malcolm became a clan chief during the reign of King James 1. In order to increase his control over the country, King James dissolved the Lordship of the Isles, the body that governed the islands around Colonsay. The MacDonald clan had previously controlled that governing body and formed a rebellion, led by James MacDonald who recruited Malcolm and several clan members. The rebellion was not successful and James MacDonald was imprisoned in Edinburgh castle.
James subsequently escaped and fled back to the islands, where Malcolm assisted him in some capacity. Malcolm was arrested for his role then tried and released when he agreed to offer his support in a specific campaign. However while he was gone, a group of mercenaries moved onto Colonsay.
These mercenaries feuded with Malcolm upon his return, who managed to avoid entangling the clan in a war by hiding whenever an attack came. While he must have been tempted to simply move away for a time, the law of that day required a clan chief to oversee the people or else they would forfeit their lands.
Eventually the mercenaries captured Malcolm and carried him to a hilltop on Colonsay where they tied him to a standing stone and executed him. The clan forfeited their lands and were required to disperse, many leaving the island they had known as home for 800 years. The MacFies became a “broken clan” until the 1980s when they were officially re-established.
Was Malcolm a failure? Is he even relevant today?
Malcolm may have died and his clan may have been disbanded, but the MacFies did not fade away, nor did the freedom he sought perish. Forced from Colonsay, we continued to pursue Malcolm’s values.
James McAfee emigrated to America in 1739 and helped to establish history’s largest democracy.
Robert Andrew MacFie was born in 1811 and became a successful businessman in Ediburgh before using his wealth to get elected to English Parliament to reform the very institution Malcolm had fought against.
Malcolm may have lost control as a clan chief, but his pursuit of freedom opened the door for exponential growth. MacFies, McAfees, McPhees, and others with variant spellings are now beyond counting.
Perhaps our value in this world doesn’t lie in our accomplishments or failures. The work of our hands may crumble and decay while our seeming failures yield enduring results. More importantly, the light that we shine continues to persevere.
I believe that in time I will pass from this earth and my name will be forgotten. However every day that I am alive I will seek justice, show mercy, and walk humbly. God can use my faith to build a better tomorrow. He can allow my unwavering hope to influence future generations.
It doesn’t matter to me that the lifting stone remained stubbornly still when I strained against it. My victory is that the next James McAfee lifted it. My legacy will be that others believe bigger things are possible through Christ.
Was Malcolm’s life a success? Was he responsible for the collapse of a clan, or the emergence of something bigger? The answer lies in your hope for the future.
Where does your hope lie?
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I am Robert Macvie and so a part of Clan Macfie. In fact I'm secretary of the Clan Macfie Society (UK). I first ventured to Colonsay in 1993 when my father drew my attention to an article in The Sunday Times, written by Iain McFie. A Clan gathering was to be held on Colonsay to mark the 350th Anniversary of Malcolm's death and folk were invited from all over the world. Well, for me it was relatively simple, living in Stratford upon Avon in England. Within days I had been in contact with Iain and booked my ferry crossing to the island. The next week was one of the most amazing and interesting times of my life as I met Macfies of all spellings, from all walks of life and from all corners of the world. Next week we're holding our 4 yearly Clan Gathering again and returning to Colonsay. I really enjoyed your article and thank you for it. I quite understand the emotional and spiritual attachment you have for this special place as I too feel the same!